So Your sidewinder has issues with Z wobble eh?
Heres a General List of what to go through
First from most common to least.
Here’s a quick guide on each of the components that may be
Responsible for your issue.
Im going to start off with the very first things you should check in ANY new printer you buy.
- The belts should be tight enough to where you should feel resistance pressing one side of the belt to the other side.
This video covers how to tighten them: Artillery 3D Sidewinder X1 Fixing Loose Belts - YouTube
The next point of focus. The sidewinder uses V-slot wheels as a way to move its hotend and Bed for the XY and Z axis, This is a cost effective solution with the considerable downside of the wheels coming loose during shipment or over time.
This should cover tightening them: HOW TO - Fix Wobble & Adjust the Eccentric Nuts (3DPrinter) - YouTube
One thing you should watch out for is to not over-tighten The wheels or else you might make things worse.
It should be just enough for you to not be able to slide the wheels out with JUST the grip of the surface of your finger
—If either of these do not work this is where you get a little bit more involved–
Public enemy number one!!! This section is probably the biggest culprit of banding on fully tuned printers.
This part is responsible for creating a smooth up and down motion between each layer transition.
In some cases the screw being bent can have many negative impacts on the alignment.
You want to first test to see if your lead screw is bent
some cases can be as subtle as this Bent leadscrew. - YouTube
If you do run into this consider a replacement there is however something that can also be compounding this issue which leads me to…
The tolerance on this part may very well be off causing unwanted up/down movement “backlash” every layer change.
I wouldn’t normally advise upgrading your way out of a problem but Anti backlash nuts are an overall benefit to any printer as you removed a variable of unwanted movement.
3dprintbeginner has covered this in this writeup Artillery Sidewinder X1 Upgrades - Paid And Free | 3D Print Beginner
–If you’ve exhausted every option above then it is safe to say that the banding culprit is in the extruder.
I would double check that all the screws in your hotend assembly are fastened correctly–
While the Titan Aero clone the printer is equipped with is serviceable, it has its own host of issues from its inherent design flaw of being single gear.
The single gear only provides traction on one side of the filament path allowing play on the other side.
This may lead to side-to-side slippage of the filament.
This is made worse with a flimsy plastic idler lever that is STILL shipped with the X2.
You can tackle both of these issues by printing a
Brace:Artillery Sidewinder X1 Extruder Lever Brace by CastroSATT - Thingiverse
and a more rigid Lever: Idler Lever Artillery Sidewinder X1 by 3DAlbert - Thingiverse
- This is where I discovered my Z-banding issue that inspired to write this.
Generally speaking the duct design isn’t good. It has a sharp bend with a crude duct design. you can instantly upgrade this by Printing a new fan duct.
This thread is still a work in progress and ive yet to find a satisfactory cooling duct for the X2 but stay tuned!